Some people on the Reaper forum were asking Pingo and I about comments we made regarding some brush and paint consistency methodology. Forgive the crudity and haphazardness of the example here 🙂
My current blotter combo, paper towel and watercolor paper. This is what I’m using for the Dark Sword pooch model. I do have another paper towel for clean brushes under my rinse jar.
I should’ve planned this better! Ok, column A starts with straight paint, two drops of Pure Black in a well palette. Then it goes 2:1 water, 2:2 water, 2:3 water. Column B is 2:4, 2:5, 2:6, 2:7. I first drag the brush across the paper towel, if the paint breaks up it’s probably too dry. Then I twist the tip of the brush on the paper. This gets the final brush load dialed in (it might take a couple twists), shows me a preview of the consistency on a constant (the paper), and also points the brush for me.
2:2 is about what I would use for base coat consistency, probably more like a 4:2 or 4:3, depends on the paint. This wasn’t flowing well at 2:1 but a bit thin at 2:2 for an opaque coat…but better too thin than too thick.
Column B would be a decent range of normal painting for me, going even thinner for glazing but I do get a bit impatient with layering! Anyway, I was going to just show washes, and even this might still be a bit thick, it all depends on the desired effect and texture you’re washing over. The broad swatch to the left of C on the paper is demonstrating coverage at 2:7, you can also see test strokes under column B, that’s the more normal way for me to test a wash consistency.
Column C on the paper towel is demonstrating how I approach a glaze (though the paint is too heavy for glazing!). I will gently put the tip of the brush on the towel and let the paint wick into via capillary action, quickly picking up. You can see the effect as I repeat this in descending order down column C. Then in column C on the paper I show how the wash consistency paint acts when it’s been wicked off to prep for glazing, vs the big swatch of paint to the left that you would get if the brush were left loaded for a wash.
For white and lighter color paints, I will do the twisting/testing over the top of a previous darker color paint (also good for testing glazes). You can see some of that in the top photo with my current blotter.
I hope that didn’t confuse everyone too much, and I bet Pingo comes in and sets it straight 🙂 Just my weird little method I’ve developed over the last year.